The middle of October has brought a few inches of snow to the Cascades
earlier this week. Having just acquired a pair of Microspikes to extend my
hiking season, I decide to attempt Mount Defiance via the old Mason Lake
trail. The forecast calls for sunny but freezing weather.
Per usual, the parking lot is full at the Ira Spring trailhead when I arrive
at 9:00 AM. Considering that the last time we hiked to Mason Lake, we parked
1/2 mile down the road, the brief 150' walk from my car is a luxury. The
mercury (do cars have that?) reads 28 degrees, so I bundle up with gloves,
hat, and a couple long-sleeve layers.
The trail begins on an old logging road that allows two or three abreast. It
climbs, but not steeply, and crosses Mason Creek on a sturdy bridge in about
20 minutes. Most hikers continue up the Ira Spring Trail, which switchbacks
through talus up the side of Bandera Mountain before hopping over the ridge to
Mason Lake. However, just after crossing Mason Creek, I veer uphill on the old
Mason Lake trail instead. I've heard it's a much shorter and less crowded
route to the lake, which sounds perfect to me. The old trail climbs away from
the logging road with a few switchbacks, then enters open forest and heads
toward Mason Creek. The trail splits in two, with the left fork heading for
the creek, and the right fork crossing a rockslide before merging with the
other trail before the lake. I take the left fork, not knowing the conditions
of the rockslide.
I remember reading the infamous description of this trail in one of my Ira
Spring hiking books. However, so far it's been lovely, and it gets more so
as a roaring sound grows louder. I know I am approaching Mason Creek, but I
am unprepared for the amazing beauty and power of the waterfall that I meet
as I round a corner. The trail comes within feet of a raging torrent that
runs downhill for what seems like about a quarter mile. The trail gets
steeper and a bit rougher as it parallels the creek, but for a good 20
minute stretch, the roaring cascades are my joyous companion. I puzzle about
how no trip reports happened to mention such an amazing sight - perhaps the
authors intended to keep it a secret. Pictures do not do this justice - this
waterfall is worth the trip even if you don't go all the way to Mason
Lake.
The way continues through mossy glens, never far from the creek, and
eventually the rockslide I read about comes into view. It has covered the
mountain side all the way down to and across the creek, and for a few moments
I wonder if the trail ascends the rocks here. This could be tricky, since the
rocks are covered with an inch of snow. However, I discover that the trail
crosses the creek here and scrambles on the other side briefly to avoid most
of the rocks. It crosses back again, then the worst part of the trail begins.
At times I climb on all fours up steep rock, then up three-foot high steps
over roots. I figure this must be the section of the trail Ira Spring was
complaining about all those years ago. However, it's quite short, and before
long, the path levels out and I'm onto the main Ira Spring Trail again. A
passing hiker seems surprised to see me emerge from the woods - I suppose not
many folks know about the old trail. After about an hour and forty minutes, I
arrive at Mason Lake. The wind howls over the lake down the Mason Creek
valley, and I stop to put on my jacket. The lake is beautiful in the morning
sun, with just an inch or two of snow dusting the rocks and trees around it.
I press on around the left side of the lake, past numerous camp sites and
day use areas. I pass the junction with the Pratt Lake Trail, which leads to
Island and Rainbow Lakes - a destination for another time. Catching a brief
glimpse of large Lake Kulla Kulla through the trees, I veer left on the
Mount Defiance Trail. The trail steepens, but has nice switchbacks to ease
the grade. The cold makes formerly wet spots very icy, and the
shaded trail is soon covered with a few inches of packed snow. I manage
to make it about 20 minutes before the conditions convince me to stop and
put on my Microspikes - slipping and sliding while trying to ascend is not
much fun. After putting on the spikes, I am amazed at the traction they
provide. It's like the snow and ice aren't even there and I can fearlessly
motor straight up the slope. I'll definitely be taking the spikes on future
winter hikes, and it seems they will be helpful in steep wooded areas as
well.
The short switchbacks give way to a long traverse across the south
face of Mount Defiance, opening up out of the trees into incredibly steep
heather hillsides. Losing the trees means gaining amazing views, and the
I-90 corridor opens up below me. As I continue climbing, I can see Mason
Lake far below and behind me, along with Bandera Mountain, and all the
mountains south of I-90. The trail is quite narrow, and I occasionally need
to scramble into the heather to let some other hikers pass. I reach another
junction just as I round a corner of the mountain. A steep trail leads from
here to the summit, while the main trail continues on to Thompson Lake and
Granite Lakes, which we visited in Hike #1.
I scramble up the well-trod summit trail. The southern exposure has melted
the snow off most of this route, and I have to climb over a few bare rocks.
This is a bit tricky with my spikes on, but I don't want to take them off
since there is still snow among the trees. It only takes about 10 minutes to
reach the summit, which is covered with about 5-6 inches of snow. While I
normally am not a summit hiker, it's always amazing to be at the top of a
peak like this and have views in all directions. It's sunny at the
top, but the wind does pick up once in a while, keeping things brisk. I have
a clear view of all the Snoqualmie area peaks and excellent views north to
the Middle Fork area, and south to Mt. Rainier. I hunker down on an exposed
rock for lunch, with my hood up to keep out the wind. Gray jays, also known
as camp robbers, flutter around hoping for a scrap of food - one flies right
in front of my phone as I am trying to take a picture. I try to get a
glimpse of Spider Lake to the west, but it's not easily visible from this
point. Spider Lake is one of the off-trail lakes in this area, and may be a
bit hard to reach due to the thick brush surrounding it.
Far below me to the east, I can see Mason Lake, with Little Mason Lake
through the trees nearby. Lake Kulla Kulla is dominant and looks even larger
than I imagined on the map. I can't quite see Island, Rainbow, Little Kulla,
or Blazer Lakes, but I can see where they are because of holes in the tree
cover. Lake Kulla Kulla and Little Kulla Lake should be a short bushwhack
away from the Mt. Defiance trail, and Blazer Lake looks eminently doable as
well. All seem like good day-hike destinations given the shortness of the
trail to get into the Mason Lake area. I finish my lunch and head back down
to the trail back to Mason Lake.
I have one more destination on my list today. Just before reaching the
junction with the Pratt Lake trail, I head downhill through woods toward
Little Mason Lake. According to my topo map, this should be pretty easy, and
it is. The open woods make for quicj progress, and I reach the lake about 5
minutes after leaving the trail. I later learn that this is precisely the
route my dad took to Little Mason decades ago - very cool to know I am
following in his footsteps. Little Mason Lake is quiet and pretty, and from
the shore there is an good view of the Mount Defiance summit. I mark this
lake off my list with a hand in the cool water. On the southeast shore of
the lake, I find a nice campsite, and a trail that I am sure heads back to
Mason Lake. The trail is a bit swampy and overgrown in places, but is not
hard to follow. I pass a beautiful ice-covered tarn and another campsite
before walking around and through some more boggy areas to reach the main
Mason Lake trail.
My mission for day has been accomplished, so now I just need to decide which
way to go on the return trip. I was planning to take the Ira Spring Trail
back for some variety, but the number of people on the trail makes it
irritating to keep donning my face mask for COVID-19 purposes. I decide to
take the old trail on the way back as well, and I'll get another chance to
view the spectacular waterfalls. I keep my spikes on until the snow starts
to peter out. A single trail runner passes me as I'm removing my spikes -
the sole person I will see on this old trail the entire day. The falls are
just as good on the way down, and the narrow wooded trail is certainly nicer
than converted logging road. I had also considered taking the upper old
trail on the way down, but the snow covering the rockslide basically rules
out that option. I make it back to the car after about 7 hours. A great
all-around hike with scenery galore.
Stats
Time: 7 hours
Distance: 8 miles
Elevation Gain: 3400'
Summits: Mount Defiance
Alpine Lakes Mission
Lakes visited: Mason, Little Mason
Total lakes: 18
Percent complete: 6%
Photos and Videos
360° Photo: Mount Defiance Summit
360° Photo: Little Mason Lake
Stats
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